Gems of Wisdom: The World of Ward Landrigan
After nearly five decades in the jewelry business, Ward Landrigan possesses a treasure trove of anecdotes, often recounted with a warm chuckle.
Chatting with the former Sotheby’s expert is like navigating a maze of captivating stories, filled with surprising and diverse episodes. An unexpected week with Hollywood icons, the acquisition of a firm once jeweller to Coco Chanel, and an office redesign that revitalized his company – these threads weave together to portray a dedicated and immensely personable figure.
This piece highlights key milestones from his remarkable career.
An Unforgettable Delivery: Meeting Taylor and Burton
Ward Landrigan was just 25 when he first crossed paths with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton.
It was 1968, and the famous couple was residing at London's Dorchester hotel. Landrigan, then head of Sotheby’s jewelry division, was tasked with personally delivering "a really important piece"—the celebrated 33.19-carat Krupp Diamond (later The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond). Burton had purchased it for his wife for a then-record $305,000 USD.
Landrigan remembers Burton answering the door in his bathrobe, barefoot, looking like he'd just woken up.
The brief exchange felt cinematic:
"Where’s the diamond?"
"In my pocket."
"Can I see it?"
Landrigan presented the jewel. Burton called out, "Elizabeth!"
The renowned actress appeared from the bedroom, also in a white bathrobe and makeup-free. "I was surprised how short she was," Landrigan recalls. Upon receiving the ring, Taylor remarked, "Look at my short, fat, little fingers. They look great!"
"She did have short, fat, little fingers," Landrigan confirms, adding, "And she was actually very funny. Very self-deprecating."
An insurance complication tied to Landrigan's name meant he couldn't leave, resulting in an unplanned week spent with the couple.
"I spent a lot of time talking to Elizabeth," he recollects. She candidly addressed comments about her taste: "Yeah, people say I have a trashy taste. I don’t care. I buy what pleases me."
Landrigan noted her affinity for white décor. "Her taste wasn’t necessarily Architectural Digest material, but she had a pretty good life," he says with a smile.
"I'd never met movie stars before," he reflects. "Your first impression is – they’re human... Being a kid from New Jersey staying with movie stars – I thought this was cool."
He would stay with them on two subsequent occasions: another week at their Swiss home ("crazy and fun") and later at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas.
Landrigan quickly recognized the constant scrutiny they faced. "They were never left alone... It was quite an experience for a young guy." This encounter remains a cherished memory.
Acquiring a Legend: Landrigan Takes Helm at Verdura
Many years later, Landrigan remains a central figure in the jewelry world as Chairman and CEO of Verdura. He bought the company, founded in 1939 by Duke Fulco di Verdura, in 1985. The Sicilian duke had initially made his name as the chief jewelry designer for the legendary Coco Chanel, famously crafting her Maltese Cross cuffs.
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Following eight years with Chanel, Verdura moved to the US. Through connections like his friend Cole Porter, he created distinctive jewelry for stars like Greta Garbo and Katharine Hepburn. He established his salon on New York's Fifth Avenue, gaining immediate acclaim among the fashionable elite, backed financially by Porter and Vincent Astor. Dubbed "America’s Crown Jeweler" by the New York Times, Verdura became recognized as a preeminent 20th-century designer.
Today, Verdura continues to draw inspiration from the nearly 10,000 original sketches left by its founder.
In 2003, the firm became a family affair when Landrigan's son Nico joined. Modern admirers include Sarah Jessica Parker, Brooke Shields, and Anne Hathaway. A special collection is planned for Verdura's upcoming 75th anniversary.
Modernizing a Classic: Verdura for a New Generation
Landrigan understands that Verdura's customer base has changed dramatically, requiring adjustments in how the business operates.
"When I bought the company in 1985, our clients were largely ‘old-money New York’... It was a select group, and I wanted to broaden our appeal," he shares. "I aimed for a younger audience. Fortunately, my son Nico, who's 34 to my 73, now runs the company. Younger generations approach business differently."
Nico's influence has been key to the company's resurgence, which Landrigan had contemplated selling around 12 years ago. He recounts with amusement Nico's first presidential act: critiquing the office aesthetics.
"‘I don’t like the décor,’" Nico stated. Landrigan's initial response was about the expense. Nico argued, "'But it looks dated... Think 1935, Waldorf Astoria, Cole Porter’s apartment.’ That's the era Verdura became famous... So we revamped it, and honestly, it looks much better."
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The Landrigans have also observed a significant shift in purchasing habits: "People in their 30s today are quite savvy... We see successful young people, especially women, buying jewelry for themselves. That's the big change. Previously, women often waited for men to buy for them... and sometimes they got the wrong thing!"
Verdura Heads North: A Canadian Connection
In the fall of 2013, Verdura expanded internationally for the first time in 25 years, partnering with Toronto's Mindham Fine Jewellery.
The Canadian venture stemmed from successful trunk shows arranged with owner Myles Mindham. For Landrigan, the move also held personal significance – his mother's family was Canadian, evoking fond childhood memories.
He was thoroughly impressed by Toronto during a recent visit. "Have you seen that New Yorker cartoon about their map of North America?" he asks, contrasting it with the reality. "Borders almost don't matter anymore." He mentions seeing a David Bowie exhibit in Toronto that he couldn't get into in London.
Moments That Matter: The Joy of Sharing Beauty
While Landrigan meets countless people, some encounters are particularly memorable. He fondly recalls two women in their 80s visiting his Fifth Avenue store in November 2013. One recognized him from 22 years prior. They weren't buying, just admiring the craftsmanship.
"They were having the best time," Landrigan says. "It might not generate immediate revenue, but it brings me immense satisfaction. Sharing beauty is a wonderful thing."
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You can find some of Ward Landrigan's gorgeous creations here